Lash Mapping 101: The 4 Core Lash Maps Every Lash Tech Needs to Know
Hands up: who thought before they started lashing that they could apply the same length and curl all the way across the lash line from the first lash to the last lash? Don’t worry, it’s a common mistake to make. Another common mistake is using a cat eye lash map on everyone – as much as we’ve been asked for a cat eye by around 80% of our clients, it’s not the best fit for everyone.
Mapping based on each client's individual eye shape, face shape and bone structure means that you create a unique look which is tailored to them and their needs, and which complements them.
Here are the 4 essential lash mapping styles that every lash technician should know – you can use these as the base shape for any trending lash style too, so knowing these will only set you up for success!
Style 1: Natural Lashes
While we wouldn’t technically say there’s any one-size-fits-all lash map as we believe everyone should have the lash map that’s perfect for them, a Natural Lash Map is pretty much as close as you can get to suiting absolutely everyone, as it follows the shape of the eye and the natural growth of the lashes.
Though the map is called Natural, it’s really just about the shape – you can apply mega volume lashes, a full set of coloured lash extensions, spiky lashes, wispy lashes, and anything else you and your client might dream up!
A Natural lash map is essentially a cross between a Squirrel and a Doll Eye Lash Map, so gives you the best of both of those!
Style 2: Doll Eye Lashes
A Doll Eye Lash Map is a staple. They’re perfect for clients with a wider set of eyes (this means that they have more space in between their eyes than the width of one eye) as it creates the illusion that their eyes are more proportional, where a cat eye would make them appear further apart.
Doll Eye Lash Maps are also great for creating an eye opening effect, so if a client has hooded almond eyes, this is quite a nice mapping style to use for them.
The key to a great Doll Eye Lash Map is symmetry – anything you do toward the inner corners needs to be mirrored toward the outer corner, and needs to match on both eyes. Try not to use too many lengths with a Doll Eye, as it can end up looking more pointed than a smooth curve – 5 or 6 lengths will be ideal.
Style 3: Squirrel Lashes
A Squirrel style isn’t as universal as a Natural Lash Map but it’s pretty close – it follows the brow bone and the way that natural lashes tend to grow, so it’s a good style to choose if you’re not too sure which style to pick for a client, or if they come to you wanting a Cat Eye which won’t suit them.
Style 4: Cat Eye Lashes
The first thing we will say is that a Cat Eye is the most commonly asked for style, but it can be really tricky to get right, and won’t suit every client.
A Cat Eye Style is characterized by having the longest lengths toward the outer corners of the eyes, which is what gives the cat-like flick.
A Cat Eye Lash Map is supposed to give a similar effect to what a lot of us aim for with eyeliner, however for clients with round eyes or with a wider set of eyes, a cat may not be the best option. Similarly, if a client has downturned eyes or downward growing lashes, a cat eye lash style can result in a droopy or sad look in the outer corners, due to the extra length there so you need to be careful with your curl selection – using something like L curl or M curl will help you to create the desired flick without creating a droopy effect.
There you have it! The four essential lash mapping styles you need to know as a lash tech – once you’ve nailed these styles, you can use them as the base for any trending lash style you might see on your social media, whilst still creating looks that will suit each individual client!
