Lash Extensions: Chemical Burns vs Allergies

How Lash Techs Can Identify Chemical Burns & Allergic Reactions

It’s every lash tech’s worst nightmare; your client messages you the day after a fresh set of eyelash extensions, saying “I’ve had an allergic reaction!” accompanied by photos of red, swollen, and itchy eyes. It’s hard not to panic. But before jumping to conclusions, how do you know if it’s truly an allergic reaction or a chemical burn? And how can you help? Let’s break it down.

What Causes Allergic Reactions and Chemical Burns?

First things first, your client isn’t allergic to the eyelash extensions themselves. Despite the fancy names like Silk, Mink, or Cashmere, lashes today are made from hypoallergenic PBT fibres. The real culprit is often the lash glue. Specifically cyanoacrylate, the primary ingredient in most eyelash glue. It’s strong stuff and can cause irritation, which is why it’s important to know how to prevent both allergic reactions and chemical burns.

Who’s at Risk of Allergic Reactions?

Anyone can have an allergic reaction, but it’s often your loyal, long-term clients who suddenly develop one. Allergies to lash glue and other chemicals build up over time. So even though a client may have been fine for years, their body can suddenly decide it’s had enough. This is why we always recommend bridal clients get their lash extensions done at least a week before the wedding, just in case!

Not all clients will react, but allergic responses can develop at any point. Did you know that if someone’s allergic to bananas, they might also react to kiwis, mushrooms, latex, and other things because they share a common enzyme?

How Can You Minimise the Risk of Allergic Reactions?

Unfortunately, once someone is allergic, they’re likely to react no matter what. Whether you switch to a slower-drying eyelash glue or use products like Superbonder to reduce exposure to fumes, an allergic reaction can still occur. If a client has had an allergic reaction once, it’s best not to apply eyelash extensions again, as the risk of a worse reaction is too high.

What About Patch Tests?

Patch tests are helpful but not a guarantee. During a patch test, you’re only using a small amount of lash glue—far less than you would for a full set of natural eyelash extensions. So while a client might pass the patch test, they could still develop a reaction after a few appointments due to the cumulative nature of allergies.

How to Spot the Difference: Chemical Burns vs Allergic Reactions

The key to identifying whether your client has a chemical burn or an allergic reaction lies in the symptoms. A chemical burn typically affects the inside of the eye, causing redness and bloodshot eyes. An allergic reaction, on the other hand, affects the area around the eye, causing the eyelids to swell and feel uncomfortable.

How Do Chemical Burns Happen?

Chemical burns can happen to anyone, and they’re usually the result of the client’s eyes being open during the lash treatment. It could be that your client peeked at their phone, had a chat, or couldn’t help flickering their eyes due to caffeine. Poor placement of under-eye patches, or using too much pressure with your isolation tweezers, can also cause the eyes to open slightly. Clients with naturally protruding eyes might struggle to keep them fully closed during the treatment, increasing their risk of a burn.

Preventing Chemical Burns During Lash Treatments

• Encourage clients to avoid caffeine at least an hour before their appointment. This can help reduce eye flickering and might even help them fall asleep during the session!
• Use micropore tape or a sanitised coin to gently weigh down the eyelid to prevent it from opening during the treatment.
• For clients with more prominent eyes, try using foam tape instead of under-eye patches. The thicker tape can help block out more of the fumes from the eyelash glue.
• Always double-check your under-eye patch placement to ensure it’s not causing discomfort.
• Use a lash mirror to check that your client’s eyes are fully closed during the treatment.
• Lighten up on the pressure of your isolation tweezer—it’s easy to press too hard and cause the eye to open slightly.

What Should You Do If a Chemical Burn Occurs?

There’s no magic fix for chemical burns, but they usually settle down within a few days. The redness and dryness can look worse than they feel. If your client is worried, direct them to a pharmacist, but avoid recommending any medications yourself, including eye drops—it’s always best to leave that to the professionals.

Can Clients Get Eyelash Extensions Again After a Chemical Burn?

Yes, they can. Just ensure their eyes stay completely closed during the treatment to avoid further irritation. However, repeated chemical burns could lead to your client developing an allergic reaction down the line, so prevention is key.

How to Handle Allergic Reactions

If a client experiences an allergic reaction, advise them to see a doctor or pharmacist immediately. If they need the eyelash extensions removed, make sure they come back to you for safe removal. Cream remover is ideal for this as it’s easier to control than gel remover and won’t run. If their eyes are severely swollen, it’s better to wait for the swelling to go down before attempting removal, as the lashes can be difficult to access when the lids are puffy.

Can You Apply Lashes After an Allergic Reaction?

It’s best not to. Allergic reactions are cumulative, meaning they can get worse with each exposure. In extreme cases, anaphylaxis could occur, which is something no one wants to deal with! Plus, most insurance policies won’t cover you if you perform a treatment when there’s a known contraindication.

If your client insists on having eyelash extensions again, advise them to take at least a 6-month break, and even then, consider applying a half set. However, even a break won’t guarantee the reaction won’t return. Alternatively, offer them a lash lift as a safer option, and they can still enjoy fabulous lashes without the risk.

Whether it’s chemical burns or allergic reactions, these issues are never fun to deal with. But with the right knowledge, careful application of lash extensions, and using products like lash cleanser, eyelash primer, and lash shampoo correctly, you can minimise the risks and keep your clients happy and healthy. Remember, safety always comes first!